Apologies for the long silence, severe shortage of internet cafés along the way (I'm currently paying 50ct/12min for access to an ancient PC so excuse me if this sounds a bit rushed).
Paths
Though walking along trails does have its short-comings (they weren't lying about the signs) and everything takes a lot longer, I am so glad to have more than 20cm road space now.
South of the small village of Pansfelde, I realised that some sections of the trail aren't that popular, really, and decided it's OK to cut some corners here and there.
Paths
Though walking along trails does have its short-comings (they weren't lying about the signs) and everything takes a lot longer, I am so glad to have more than 20cm road space now.
South of the small village of Pansfelde, I realised that some sections of the trail aren't that popular, really, and decided it's OK to cut some corners here and there.
Places
The first two days the path led through fields and vineyards...
The first two days the path led through fields and vineyards...
...lakes...
...and forests of every hue and smell and sound. If you miss a turn after Wippra (like I did) you will, for instance, come upon this spot...
...and then stumble into...
...the Land of the Dwarves. No kiddin'. It's on the sign. 'According to an old tale, here lies the entrance to the underground realm of the dwarves...'
Other places of note were Eisleben...
Other places of note were Eisleben...
...Burg Falkenstein...
...and Gernrode as it boasts...
...The World's Largest Thermometer (hidden behind a hedge...show some pride, lads) and...
...The World's Largest Cuckoo Clock (though some folks in the Black Forest contest this crown and they had to turn down the volume a bit because the local school complained about the noise. Thanks to Thomas for the tour and the background info). I have a funny video of him doing his spiel. Quite hilarious.
But the icing on the cake was arriving in Wernigerode today, a name that didn't evoke anything too exciting. But check out the city centre.
But the icing on the cake was arriving in Wernigerode today, a name that didn't evoke anything too exciting. But check out the city centre.
Like it popped out of a fairytale.
People
So far, I am the only crazy person walking this path (apart from people walking their dog), so my contacts are limited to when I stop for food or shelter but, boy, was I lucky there.
The story of how I met Father Fritsch of Kloster Helfta in Eisleben is far too long and convoluted to write down, so I'm keeping that one for now. I'll just say that it started on Day 8 with some good hearty cursing on my part that made fox and badger cover their ears, but ended happily that same day with another long conversation over a pint and another incredibly generous donation to Fighting Blindness.
I also have to tell you about Fred the woodcutter.
People
So far, I am the only crazy person walking this path (apart from people walking their dog), so my contacts are limited to when I stop for food or shelter but, boy, was I lucky there.
The story of how I met Father Fritsch of Kloster Helfta in Eisleben is far too long and convoluted to write down, so I'm keeping that one for now. I'll just say that it started on Day 8 with some good hearty cursing on my part that made fox and badger cover their ears, but ended happily that same day with another long conversation over a pint and another incredibly generous donation to Fighting Blindness.
I also have to tell you about Fred the woodcutter.
He is one of the kindest people I know (he let me sleep in his barn--almost clichee, I know--,gave me breakfast and answered all my silly city boy questions about forests, reforestation, charcoal making, cattle herding and whatnot) but as a word of warning DO NOT try to steal diesel from his woodyard: he once broke a car window with his bare fist and has perfected the skill of driving without headlights for the sole purpose of chasing down thieves in the dark. The last ones did not see him coming...